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February 2nd , Singapore
Never arrived in Singapore by water before but sliding in
early the morning the waterfront twinkled.
No pollution or haze here, which has followed us throughout this
journey. The Exxon plant, which takes up
an entire island, Jurong Island, which is where Dupont, Oiltanking and Vopak
reside, is off in the distance. We land
next to the famous Sentosa Island where the cable cars go directly over the
vessel from the main island to Sentosa.
With a little delay because our car is at another cruise
terminal we head off into the muggy morning air of Singapore. Overcast with spits of rain but the coolest I
have ever seen this city. A pleasant
temperature but still muggy and it is only 10 o’clock in the morning.
The Stamford a Swissotel is where we have chosen to stay and
they amaze us by having our room waiting on us.
Nice as we had planned to go walking (I know. No surprise when traveling with Terrie.) But
today it would have been with a full backpack.
The luggage we could drop at the holding spot in the hotel but the
backpack would have had to stay with us.
So it was a relief that I got to drop valuables and heavies and place
them along with the bags safely in the rooms.
This hotel has been a stop of mine before and I love the
location. In walking distance of
something no matter which direction to turn.
Immediately across from the famous Raffles Hotel and the main shopping
street of Orchard Road. Out the front
and right to Chinatown, Boat Quay and Clarke Quay (both famous eating and
partying districts). Out front and left
to little India and straight out to he Singapore Flyer (think the London Eye on
steroids) and the new Marina Bay complex with the three towered hotel connected
at the top with a huge pool, restaurant and bar shaped like a ship.
With the intermittent little rain we choose to head off to
Orchard Street where you can always find a shop or mall to duck into to avoid
getting wet. The prize at the end of the
street is the original Hard Rock Café where I have hung out before to avoid the
oppressive heat and humidity. Along the
way we encounter those little know places like Prada, Cartier, YSL and
Coach. Terrie soon realizes that they
are as many malls here in a short distance as there are in all of Houston. For me it is all about the food options
here. Some I might choose and others to
be avoided but all in a good day of walking.
We buy little but see a lot because the Lunar New Year is just around
the corner and do they celebrate here.
Red and gold everywhere as is a Goat.
After walking part way back from the HRC we catch a cab to
avoid the rain and go back from a drop stop and go. It is lunchtime so we dive into the attached
shopping mall and head into the local food court. Food places here are very clean but carry few
if any of our traditional businesses.
You pick by reading the menu at each entrance. Sushi, French, Japanese, Korean, Thai are all
options. We even find a “Handburger
Joint” but Terrie balks at that thought and we settle for Thai food.
Off again this time headed toward the Merlion and hopefully
a harbor tour. To my surprise there is
no more harbor tour because big changes have happened. The Singapore Harbor is no longer a
harbor. Once the landing site of the
ships coming in it is now jus the edge of a big pond. The Singapore River that once emptied into
the sea and was a mix of salt water and fresh water is now a reservoir
capturing the fresh water. The River’s
access to the sea has been blocked by a dam that hold back the salt water and
keeps boats from moving out. The famous
Singapore lightering boats are now electric powered and metal. Gone are the handmade lightering boats as
they have been replaced by the cleaner and newer bumboat look a likes. We ride anyway and take Merlion photos for the
ages.
Cruising the Singapore “River” you find out the old harbor
has been filled in to make land for the new Marina Bay Complex that holds the
Sands Hotel and Casino, a Mega Shopping Mall and the Gardens by the Bay. Gardens by the Bay include tall fake trees
and an arboretum that grows plants from sea level to mountaintops. Yes fake mountaintops too. Just shows you the changes here. Old harbor gone. Salt water gone. Manmade lake now. Manmade trees and manmade mountains, what
will they think of next. Oh wait a
bigger than the London eye, London Eye.
Oh well we sail along the water thinking of the past.
We hop off the water taxi at the Merlion and begin our walk
along the banks thinking of my history here.
Somewhere in the maze of tall building are the Stolt and Odjfell offices
now lost in a sea of new taller shinier buildings. Boat Quay begins with an Irish pub serving
nice cold Guinness with tables along the way.
Thankfully in all the newness they haven’t torn down the original
Chinese merchant homes even though they have long ago converted to
restaurants. A row of these narrow
places with a bit of seating in the building’s ground floor and more seating
just along the shoreline. It is like
walking through each place so you can read the menu board or picture boards,
view their next dish still swimming in their aquariums. Fish from tiny to huge, crabs the size of
hubcaps from Sirlanka or Alaska’s Deadliest Catch, or clams that would make a
Stallion blush. Indian, Italian, French,
Local, Chinese, Moroccan and some places I didn’t even know existed. We just stroll by and get invited in to Happy
Hour and discount Tiger Beer a 20 or so places.
As we exit Boat Quay and are about to cross under the road
separating Boat from Clarke Quay we both stop in our tracks as music that was
constantly changing from one nationality to another catches our attention. Is it possible that we both hear this? “Jambalaya, me oh my oh, Have some fun on the
bayou”. We are required to stop and
listen and verify that we are now over 10,000 miles away, a few miles away from
the equator and we are hearing Cajun Music.
Honest to goodness Cajun music.
Both of us break out laughing and sing right along.
Boat Quay is the original landing spot with many narrow
buildings that are now preserved as restaurants. Clarke Quay is the 20th century
version. Bigger places, trendy, more
cooperate. Hooters, Chili’s, Harry’s
Bar. Big cooperate places that couldn’t
stand the original’s limitation of space so the opened up further up the River
in the downstairs of new hotels and shopping malls. Disco’s as well a bar and a place to
eat. International bar brands just
couldn’t stand to be left out when there was a crowd spending money. Sure more air conditioned and expansive but
not near as rustic and individual. So we
walked on stopping only to read the Mexican Food menu that sounded interesting
but the timing was bad as we had much more afternoon to go before we stopped.
The rain began to start back up as we crossed the last
street next to our hotel. We jump in the
first door we could and found ourselves back in this multistory mall
again. Fine watches, fashion, soup to
nuts all under the same roof. My goal
quickly became a big 2 liter of Diet Coke.
It couldn’t be “my” hotel without my favorite brew.
Luckily the basement was the food court and grocery
store. If you have never had the
pleasure of travel one highlight is a rainy day to wander the isles and read
what they can buy. Swiss Cheese flavored
Lay’s potato chips. Lichee flavored
sodas. And many things I had no clue
what they were. But they did have my almost
2 liter Diet Coke and I return to rest my tired feet with a well earned
bottomless glass.
We were tired and if Terrie’s Fitbit was close to right we
were bumping 30,000 steps and maybe over.
My only proof was my tired legs.
We were toast and all the best laid plans of going back out for a meal
along the Quay fell to walking across the street to a place I had been to
before that housed a variety of international places. The building started life as a Monastery around a small
beautiful Church. The grounds have
survived but also have been repurposed.
The Sanctuary is still in operation but the outer buildings are split
into numerous eating places. Tired and
damp we chose an easy Harry’s Bar.
Nachos and Tigers for two with a split Fish and Chips main. Just what was needed to top off the first
day.