Docking in Da Nang

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January 23^rd

We were up early to go ashore.  Off the ship and also off the planned outings for today we had a plan of our own.  A car with a driver and a guide for 8 hours to visit places from the past.  If I was to name the excursion I might have to call it a Ghost Tour.  Leave Da Nang even though I have fond memories of this place, mostly sleeping on the side of a helicopter run way trying to get back up north. Heading north to the city of Phu Bai and Hue where I spent most of a year in the early 70’s.

What a drive along Highway One.  Along the beach and over Monkey mountain through a newly finished tunnel.  Passing fishing villages, rice paddies, and water buffalo.  New villages had sprung up along the coast since I was last here.  Things had grown and are growing as Highway One is getting a much needed widening process.  All good along the way as I recognized areas that we had only flown over in days past.

I knew I was approaching the old base when we saw the tower for the airport.  We had always been across from there so we slowed to see the massive warehouses that cover most of the old place.  A few of the old French barracks still stand unused among the huge warehouse complex.  I suspect that they will not last much longer.

The road we had used was mostly dirt with small shanties along it for people to sell things to the passer byes but this two had changed to a four lane highway which could change into a six or seven lane road if the drivers thought they had room.  Some things never change.  Bikes with goods strapped on, scooters with everything but the kitchen sink tied to them (wait I saw a kitchen sink on one).  How they can have a dozen live chickens on a scooter or several panes of clear glass or a family of four or six and still drive is a testimony to their skill and courage.  But in many ways it brought back memories of travel in and around Phu Bai.

On into Hue and a tranquil visit to the Citadel.  Thankfully our guide was born in Hue and shared so much of the history of the Nguyen Dynasty.  Good to see that they are working very hard to restore the place that held so many memories.

After a wonderful walk we headed up the Perfume River to a Buddhist shrine. Again quiet inside that contrasted with the beep beep of hundred of scooter horns outside in the streets.  I think any vehicle with a broken horn here would be considered unusable.  Traffic is amazing with round abouts everywhere, which could be renamed “free for alls”.  The only rule is the bigger you are the less you have to slow down.  Only little guys and chickens stop so just keep moving.

We turned and headed back to Da Nang and the ship with a stop at a stonecutter.  Marble Mountain was appropriately named as they do beautiful work in stone here.

A China Beach stop which looked nothing like the TV show but a “must see’ for the any tourist and then back to the ship.  Great day.  Memories.  Thoughts.  Recollections.

I am happy to have returned and happier still that Terrie was there so she could at least see the today’s version of where I was.  For me it was time I saw a peaceful Vietnam full of people going about their every day lives.  I was saddened by the site of many War Memorials that only recognized the people of the north without ever mentioning those that fought for the south.  I was disturbed by the recollections of the guide about the days of the “reeducation” camps where southern sympathizers were reeducated after the war.  I was disturbed by the information shared of the AmerAsian children and how those families were treated.  But I realized that the loosing side seldom gets an input.  At least they have moved on.  Many peacefully going on admitting to the history but not being bound by it.  That is much like our today generation, what happened here is only a page in a book rather than the real Days of our lives. 

So it was time to jump back on board and relax.  Good day.  Beautiful place.  History lesson over.  Sail on.